Surfing Waikiki

Surfing in Waikiki:


            For the longest time that I could remember I have been surfing. From spending summers in California to moving there full-time, surfing has been somewhat a Davidson tradition. The greatest surfing trip I have ever had though was in Waikiki Hawaii about three years ago. We went to a hut to go rent surfboards and started hitting the surf. The first thing I noticed upon entering the water was the warmness the ocean held. In the whole world I have never been surfing where the water was on average 70-80 degrees. This caught me by surprise cause of the warmth and how differently it felt in comparison to the chilly coast of mainland America. Upon hitting some nice outside waves I noticed the sun was beginning to set, but to my surprise no one was leaving the water. I ask one of the surfers and he said people surf until the sun is completely set. This took me by surprise because around the time the sun sets, sharks begin to lurk. It was 15 minutes later when I saw something so beautiful I can perfectly picture it to this day. The sunset began to reflect on the waves giving the ocean a golden glow to it. Furthermore, the sunset took up most of the sky radiating all kinds of colors like, orange, yellow, red, pink, and purple, It was a sight to be seen. Next I went for a wave and got completely pitted with the wave going over my head. In the sea tunnel it was almost like how people say when you are dying to see a light at the end of a tunnel, less morbid I found myself surfing the tube while riding to the sunset's light at the end of the wave. This experience was amazing in the sense of completely experiencing different sensations of touch and vision that was such a norm to the locals. Overall I gotta go back again sometime.  

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The most primitive sense

Cannibalism and Symbolism

Wrap-Up Post